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Florence from Above

Above Michelangelo Piazza

We found the steps this time to Michelangelo’s plaza. I could have sat above the clouds all day.

What is the most spectacular view of Florence? There had to be more than the plaza, and so there was at San Miniatura. The green, white and red decorative tiles with the golden oculus of Christ at it’s heart –above the doors. Inside you could walk up, down, in, below, above, all around the altar, the massive columns, the crypt of columns, to the altar steps that rose into the hidden back. The church was open and completely free, as lots of things were in Florence.

Roses at Michelangelo Plazza View of Florence Michelangelo Plazza

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A Bit More Boboli

Boboli Garden Plants

Upon our return home, I bought three roses and a trumpet vine that would eventually uproot the house, said my husband before giving it away. I had to fill myself with the beauty I’d experienced in Italy.

Boboli Garden Door Florence Grotto at Boboli Florence

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The Boboli Gardens, Florence

Boboli Garden Lemons at Boboli roses at boboli My family at Boboli

Neptune stood in a still pond. We walked through arbors trained to grow over our heads in arches. We took in the sight lines and focal points where busts of noble men were carved. Pea gravel gardens rose and fell. A cedar lined alleyway was cut back and forth with less severe paths. There was an elevated marble stage floating. Lemon trees in terra-cotta pots were vibrant and pungent. The fruit bursting, just like the roses in rows and rows at the nearby greenhouse. Terra-cotta pots sat everywhere along the pea gravel paths. Rose vines were overwhelming the iron balconies. Grottos hid behind the branches. Topiary vines six inches in diameter followed the exterior wall.

The Boboli Gardens, in Florence Italy

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Over the Bridge to San Niccolo

Neighborhood Florence

We crossed the Arno over the Ponte Vecchio bridge again the next day and walked up lanes of a residential district. Streets dead-ended into steps. Other roads came down at acute angles. Skooters were always going by and the sidewalks to move out-of-the-way were not more than a glorified curb.

From Boboli Gardens

We are on our way to the Boboli gardens not knowing what to expect. The first glimpses to the sunken maze garden beyond the palace are incredibly intricate -roses in full bloom. A magnificent view of the Duomo holds the landscape from our vantage, just a hill above downtown Florence. The gardens are large! Open swaths of a graded landscape, clear through the center and leading dramatically up to a lovely sculpture surrounded by a pool compete for our attention.

Boboli Gardens

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First Night in Florence

Uffizi Florence

What more could I want out of a hotel where I could walk barefoot over cool decorative tiles and hear other travelers sing together in the shower bathroom? We walked the well-lit streets home that first night. They were glowing from the rain. My brother bought a red bottle of wine that we would split into the six plastic cups. The vendor had given us an extra one to include himself! People here were feeling festive, and this of course included tourists staying at our hotel. The traveling Canadian hadn’t exposed himself to us too much yet, but we’d get to know him better over breakfast the next morning.

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I felt finally awake on our vacation.

ZA ZA Florence

Dinner was an easy choice –ZaZa- recommended by our proprietor and by my cousin, Dominic. This piazza had a newly renovated busy market place where we heard techno music. We were brought in to the large-table room at ZaZa. English-speaking people were discussing wine nearby. (We would soon turn into these snobs ourselves!) Our waiter was so friendly –bringing extra cheese or patte when we commented how delicious it was. A bust of a bronzed Churchhill was in the corner. This was the first place that sharing an appetizer worked! In addition we split a few tables wines and Dad started telling jokes. Between he, my brother, and husband my stomach was really hurting. We stayed late, just as Italians do, turning the dinner hour into the entire evening.

zaza

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Into Florence, May 2014

Florence Carousel

To Piazza della Republica where a carousel was set in the center of rich hotel restaurants. Wealth shone everywhere, in the guild of the Medici family court, the castle we could walk in for free. Azalia pink blooms made everything bright.

Medici castle court in Florence

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The Duomo in Florence Italy

 

florence duomo

April 28th, Monday. Florence is lush, crowns and crosses. The first night there we walked to place the city. We touched and discussed the heavy doors outside the Duomo in piazza del Duomo and the bands of statues in the façade. Because it was five o’clock, there weren’t any lines to walk into the church. The Dome was one of the most beautiful we would see. Painstakingly painted from Heaven to hell. The colorful marble floors, side altar statues and tapestries, all of it leading up to this magnificent dome painted by Viccoli, Giorgio Vasari, or Frederico Zuccari.IMG_6973

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From Giulianova to Florence Italy

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We took a train along the glistening Adriatic Sea. Without assigned seats we shifted, stood, read and awaited Florence, my favorite city. It was raining and we got a little lost in the streets with many people. My husband and I were returning to the hotel where we’d honeymooned 4 years prior.

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Rain in Florence made the buildings glisten at night. We got a little lost trusting our instincts to find our hotel, but were soon there and taken in by the marble railings, high ceilings, terra-cotta tiled floors, and warm company.

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Moments with our Family in Italy

20130304_1_a1503Mom, Dad, my husband and I rode with Ottavio to the mall. The parking garage was full of small cars that we could see over.  This must be the thing Italians do when it rains.

We found one another at the entry and from that point on went together in a crowd -into small bookstores, into a teenager’s clothing shop where Eugina bought a jean jacket asking Zia what she thought. We felt absorbed into their culture, the five of us along for the ride. The family walked around an appliance store similar to Sears. Books, electronics, the entire family as one pack went through the store. My brother, husband, Roberta, and Gabrielle discussed CD’s and Gabrielle bought a Red Hot Chili Peppers one. Some things were called a constant like facebook, and not face di libro, which they got a laugh out of.

Our whole group was tired I think. We drove from the mall along the coast of the dark tropical high pine trees, the giraffe type that looked pruned 30’ into the air. Ottavio drove us by Beta Fence, his place of employment, and drove so fast down that road. He talked of biking the hills, su, ju, up, down, up and down. We all met at a little barista, this Sunday evening on a parallel street to the beach, in one of those shops we saw when we walked into town Thursday. So I had coffee. The Italian relatives had lattes. Americans had beers. Our lunch had been so filling we all nibbled on appetizer snacks, which were enough. Roberta asked again why we’d come to Italy and we’d said to find family.

They had hosted us all day long, all of them. It was hard to express how grateful we were! We stood, went back upstairs, outside, then swapped numbers. Maybe someday we could skype. The two young girls, Gabrielle and Luana walked us home back to our hotel. Luana in her thick heels just as Maria Pia had done through the cobblestone piazza at San Gabriele. Gabrielle hugged Luana. The beach sounds were lovely and I wondered how often our families visited their own shore. Luana, Sivana, Maria Pia, and the two girls were so loveable. I’d always think of baci, baci, kisses, kisses they would say. Our entire last two days were like a dream and I didn’t want to let it go. We had to go? We all knew we’d be back to our family, the town, the mountains becoming us. We watched our last few relatives walk back to their cars a few blocks away. What a lovely two days that we couldn’t have planned. Gabrielle had even said himself that surprises were better.

Photo of mall by Progetto CMR Massimo ROJ Architects

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