Categories
Travel

First Night in Florence

Uffizi Florence

What more could I want out of a hotel where I could walk barefoot over cool decorative tiles and hear other travelers sing together in the shower bathroom? We walked the well-lit streets home that first night. They were glowing from the rain. My brother bought a red bottle of wine that we would split into the six plastic cups. The vendor had given us an extra one to include himself! People here were feeling festive, and this of course included tourists staying at our hotel. The traveling Canadian hadn’t exposed himself to us too much yet, but we’d get to know him better over breakfast the next morning.

Categories
Travel

I felt finally awake on our vacation.

ZA ZA Florence

Dinner was an easy choice –ZaZa- recommended by our proprietor and by my cousin, Dominic. This piazza had a newly renovated busy market place where we heard techno music. We were brought in to the large-table room at ZaZa. English-speaking people were discussing wine nearby. (We would soon turn into these snobs ourselves!) Our waiter was so friendly –bringing extra cheese or patte when we commented how delicious it was. A bust of a bronzed Churchhill was in the corner. This was the first place that sharing an appetizer worked! In addition we split a few tables wines and Dad started telling jokes. Between he, my brother, and husband my stomach was really hurting. We stayed late, just as Italians do, turning the dinner hour into the entire evening.

zaza

Categories
About Me

Ponte Vecchio in Florence Italy


ponte vecchio

We crossed the street to the side of the river and got our first glimpse of Ponte Vecchio. Because I had read Dan Browns’ Inferno my mind was racing about secret passages over the bridge, from Boboli Gardens to the Uffizi. We walked across the old bridge of shops, small jewelry boxes being closed for the night by intricate hardware mechanisms from above, like an old roll top desk.

Ponte Vecchio

Easy espresso breaks were often and once we crossed over the river we spotted a gellateria for one. We walked down to the Boboli gardens, though they were closed. The intricate carvings, wooden revolvers, coat of arms, stone buildings, the stores that sold leather and linens. The Medici family’s wealth had washed over the entire city and they were so rich that even 300 years later it was still detectable.

Categories
Travel

Into Florence, May 2014

Florence Carousel

To Piazza della Republica where a carousel was set in the center of rich hotel restaurants. Wealth shone everywhere, in the guild of the Medici family court, the castle we could walk in for free. Azalia pink blooms made everything bright.

Medici castle court in Florence

Categories
Travel

The Duomo in Florence Italy

 

florence duomo

April 28th, Monday. Florence is lush, crowns and crosses. The first night there we walked to place the city. We touched and discussed the heavy doors outside the Duomo in piazza del Duomo and the bands of statues in the façade. Because it was five o’clock, there weren’t any lines to walk into the church. The Dome was one of the most beautiful we would see. Painstakingly painted from Heaven to hell. The colorful marble floors, side altar statues and tapestries, all of it leading up to this magnificent dome painted by Viccoli, Giorgio Vasari, or Frederico Zuccari.IMG_6973

Categories
Travel

From Giulianova to Florence Italy

IMG_6957

We took a train along the glistening Adriatic Sea. Without assigned seats we shifted, stood, read and awaited Florence, my favorite city. It was raining and we got a little lost in the streets with many people. My husband and I were returning to the hotel where we’d honeymooned 4 years prior.

IMG_6958

Rain in Florence made the buildings glisten at night. We got a little lost trusting our instincts to find our hotel, but were soon there and taken in by the marble railings, high ceilings, terra-cotta tiled floors, and warm company.

IMG_6962

Categories
Travel

Moments with our Family in Italy

20130304_1_a1503Mom, Dad, my husband and I rode with Ottavio to the mall. The parking garage was full of small cars that we could see over.  This must be the thing Italians do when it rains.

We found one another at the entry and from that point on went together in a crowd -into small bookstores, into a teenager’s clothing shop where Eugina bought a jean jacket asking Zia what she thought. We felt absorbed into their culture, the five of us along for the ride. The family walked around an appliance store similar to Sears. Books, electronics, the entire family as one pack went through the store. My brother, husband, Roberta, and Gabrielle discussed CD’s and Gabrielle bought a Red Hot Chili Peppers one. Some things were called a constant like facebook, and not face di libro, which they got a laugh out of.

Our whole group was tired I think. We drove from the mall along the coast of the dark tropical high pine trees, the giraffe type that looked pruned 30’ into the air. Ottavio drove us by Beta Fence, his place of employment, and drove so fast down that road. He talked of biking the hills, su, ju, up, down, up and down. We all met at a little barista, this Sunday evening on a parallel street to the beach, in one of those shops we saw when we walked into town Thursday. So I had coffee. The Italian relatives had lattes. Americans had beers. Our lunch had been so filling we all nibbled on appetizer snacks, which were enough. Roberta asked again why we’d come to Italy and we’d said to find family.

They had hosted us all day long, all of them. It was hard to express how grateful we were! We stood, went back upstairs, outside, then swapped numbers. Maybe someday we could skype. The two young girls, Gabrielle and Luana walked us home back to our hotel. Luana in her thick heels just as Maria Pia had done through the cobblestone piazza at San Gabriele. Gabrielle hugged Luana. The beach sounds were lovely and I wondered how often our families visited their own shore. Luana, Sivana, Maria Pia, and the two girls were so loveable. I’d always think of baci, baci, kisses, kisses they would say. Our entire last two days were like a dream and I didn’t want to let it go. We had to go? We all knew we’d be back to our family, the town, the mountains becoming us. We watched our last few relatives walk back to their cars a few blocks away. What a lovely two days that we couldn’t have planned. Gabrielle had even said himself that surprises were better.

Photo of mall by Progetto CMR Massimo ROJ Architects

logo

Categories
Travel

Breaking Bread with Family

Home in Giulianova

My brother rode with us on the way back and laughed along the toll road mishaps. Later we would learn that one time, twenty years ago, late at night Maria Pia got onto the wrong side of the highway and drove that way for twenty minutes into oncoming traffic! They told the story while also feeding her the bone of the lamb over our supper! She took the jokes well and I imagined that she may be the baby of the family.

Once close to the Ferroni’s house, where we would have the traditional Easter dinner, Maria Pia stopped along the street to chat with an oncoming car. Nadia and her husband, Alfonso, who would come to Sivana and Ottavio’s home later, were also our relatives!

We met Sivana and Ottavio’s children, Domenico, the architecture student in Milan and Allessia.  Once in the Ferroni’s home, where lunch smelled delicious we noticed the long table set for fifteen people! (Paolo, Pietro, Luana, Sivana, Domenico, Roberta, Eugina, Allessia, Ottavio, the genuine host, Gabrielle, and the five of us.) I remember the entry, the interior, how the land would fall off in the back, into gardens that Domenico said he tended while he was at home. The attic room had views to the sea and then to the mountains. The laughter that pulled us from the road came inside. The sheer fact of finding one another in the first place hadn’t worn off me yet.

We all sat down. Anyone who hadn’t come with us to San Gabriele had been helping to prepare lunch. A small kitchen off this dining room had more beautiful views. China plates were stacked and a napkin over our first course of this traditional Eater meal of spaghetti pasta and lamb. From the time the church bells woke us up to this moment back in Giulianova my mom was like a little girl. So small, so innocent, so happy to be whisked away by our relatives. It seemed every twenty years or so one of us from the states would come to Giulianova and find our roots.

Ah, so our meal began. The olives, the fried cheese (the brie cheese lightly breaded), the procutto (and the pate tasted good alongside of the spicy meat) was so delicious! What Dad would soon find out was that the sooner you finished your plate the quicker you got more food. Gabrielle would jump up to give Dad more Procutto, cheese, spaghetti…Dad was so full but he just couldn’t stop eating.

Later on in the afternoon Sivana would bring more pictures down from upstairs. Gabrielle in the 80’s looked hilarious with lots of hair, fluorescent clothes and big glasses. They had pictures of Mom’s cousins, Aunt Irma’s kids when they were there in the 90’s.

We had water, sprite and a little wine. At different times during our meal we’d get up to look at something, our houses on google earth for instance. Maria Pia had prepared desert and before it arrive don the table everyone made a sound like thunder… awaiting the dish. Tiramisu I think. During dinner Andy would grab Maria Pia and to her look genuinely happy and gay, but then behind her back he made the crazy loco sign with his hands and crossed eyes, which made everyone continue on laughing even more.

We had a long meal and as it came to an end so did the sunshine outside. So, what did we do next? Go to the mall of course.

Categories
Travel

The Church of San Gabriele

IMG_6953

With his hands behind his back Gabrielle led us into the old church of San Gabriele. The church was baby blue, with understated, intimate vaulted ceilings for an Italian cathedral. San Gabrielle was the patron saint of youth and in the atrium to this old church there was a stairway that led to the museum above celebrating the young 24-year-old saint, Gabrielle. We would enjoy mass in the new much more modern church momentarily.

san4

Case per Vacanza photo above

Beneath the sanctuary of the new church a life-like model of San Gabrielle laid in a glass casket. Three sides of it were surrounded by a few pews for praying. We were in silence then for a while when Gabrielle again told us that mass was starting. Above us, in a very large contemporary church, the congregation was filing in and we found a place in the front row for all eight of us. Mass began and I was enamored by the crucifix mosaics that flanked either side of the altar. Again, it was difficult to decipher much more than the rhythm of mass. Communion was a free-for-all once again as was the exiting at the close of mass. We took a photo and then decided it was time to go back to Giulianova.

Italian Family

San Gabriele

Categories
Travel

After finding our Italian Family

IMG_6948

We’d leave Giulianova after having found our family after all and I’d still be curious as to whom else in this 20,000 person town we were related to. Addresses that had come out of our searches tended to be our great aunt’s second homes, those that were within the historic city and semi-abandoned. These brick homes held ground nearby to the central duomo, the ancient dome, as seen from the Adriatic. That dome bore a lovely ancient holding to the land above the ocean in Giulianova di Paesa, city center.

But, this Sunday would be the day we’d been dreaming of for the last two years. This would be the day we’d tell all of our relatives about in the U.S.

We were all excited for our day to begin anyhow. Gabrielle and Maria Pia would be picking us up soon after breakfast and they showed up on the dot as welcoming as ever, with hugs and kisses.

My husband and I got in the car with Maria Pia while my brother, Mom and Dad got in the car with Roberta and Gabrielle. Then off we went. It was going to take probably 45 minutes and we tried to communicate with the only Italian words we knew with Maria Pia. She put on the radio, got phone calls and drove fast. To Teramo, the thin highways guiding us back into the mountains, away from the two Giulianovas, Giulianova Pesante and Giulianova al Mare. Maria Pia was a crack-up, said she’d follow Gabrielle through the EZ pass equivalent toll lane, thought not having an EZ pass herself she had to reverse to go through a proper one. This began the laughter between our cars. This happened twice on our trip. What was even scarier was the two time she pulled into oncoming traffic lanes at the toll booth! We were almost in pain from laughing. Gabrielle, the car ahead of us, noticing what was happening behind him would put an arm out the window with a raised fist asking verbally and joking, what are you doing!? She was light-hearted and laughing too. We did though make it to the church in one piece. It was a quiet Sunday morning up in the mountains of fog.

IMG_6952